just posted a new slideshow on the photos page (vienna)
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i need a raincheck, england (part one)
One week before I was to leave for London to meet Alex, on my way out the door of my apartment building to meet my trainer at the gym CRASHBANGBOOM my back went out. As I was crumpled on the ground in the lobby, I thought, "Wow, it is indeed like your back has done gone out. What an apt phrase that is!" I somehow managed to gather myself up enough to hobble up the stairs back to my apartment. After a grueling 24 hours, I got my hands on (read: prescribed by my doctor) some pain pills and muscle relaxers which brought me back to the land of the living. Now, I just had one week to recuperate before flying to London. That's possible, right? Right? Come to find out, no, it really is not.
Armed with my drugs (read: PRESCRIBED drugs) and a request for a wheelchair, I headed to LAX Saturday evening. Now, reserving a wheelchair was something I had never done before. And it was really surprisingly easy to do (just call your airline a few days before your flight), completely free (excluding a tip which is up to your discretion) and totally worthwhile. After checking in, I was directed to wait in a little cordoned off disabled person's corral where at about five minutes before my flight was about to board, I was picked up by my "driver." I don't want to say it was worth throwing out my back to have the opportunity to have an excuse to be wheelchaired at lightning speed through the airport in front of every line through secret doors directly to my seat on the plane, but it was definitely the silver lining of the week.
The flight was a Vicodin, Soma and a glass of white wine induced blur. And when we finally did get to London, my brain didn't even necessarily put together that my wheelchair reservation included a wheelchairing through Heathrow. It was a nice and welcome surprise. I was picked up by an Ali G sounding youngster who went above and beyond his duties. He whizzed me through the miles-long airport, through customs, got my luggage, brought me to an ATM, helped me purchase the right train ticket to get into London and dropped me off on the bench to wait for it. And he refused to take a tip which he greatly deserved. So Booyakasha and Respek to you, young man. Thank you.
I made my way to our hotel and crashed in the room. I was still in a pretty deep drug-fueled, jet-lagged travel coma when Alex arrived a few hours later. That night was uneventful. Some dinner was involved. More sleeping ensued. Let me just point out here that this was my first ever trip to London, England or anywhere in the United Kingdom for that matter. We had three days in London and I was still naively hopeful that I could get some touristy sightseeing checked off my list in the morning after a good night's sleep.
Double-decker bus. Check. Driving on the left side of the road. Check. Trafalgar Square in the background. Oh, yah, you betcha, we're in London!
Our hotel was really in a great location right on Trafalgar Square. Jetlag woke me up pretty early. When Alex roused, we made our way outside to go track down a nice full English breakfast. We surprisingly had a very difficult time finding a decent place to eat in our area. It was a bit before 8am and it seemed a lot of places weren't open yet. From this situation, one could surmise that London isn't as crazy about breakfast as we are in the States apparently. Finally, we had to settle on this chain that was right next to our hotel. I don't know if it was just an off day for this place, but they appeared to be opening their doors at the same time as they were receiving deliveries for the day and didn't seem to have any sort of back loading dock type entrance. So as we entered the restaurant, we were followed by carts of groceries. Unfortunately, it seemed that we beat the arrival of the potato truck so we were unable to have hash browns. We should have taken that as a warning sign for the quality that was to come. The breakfast was cold and blah. The coffee tasted like burnt dirt. However, I am smart enough not to judge the whole of England on this shitty franchise's version of their breakfast. Better breakfasts were to come.
After that bold jaunt through our temporary neighborhood, I spent the rest of the day convalescing in bed. However, that night we had reservations at Gordon Ramsey's Boxwood Cafe and I refused to miss it. It ended up being well worth it. We had their Monday Supper which was three courses with an amuse-bouche to start. I can't remember everything I had but I do remember I chose a Shepherd's Pie as the entree. The food was all fantastic. And my body managed to even keep it together until the middle of the second and third course. I popped some pills and carried on. I'm a star!
The sum of my sightseeing these three days were as follows: Seeing Buckingham palace on the way to the Gordon Ramsey restaurant. Well, let me say first Alex pointed the palace out to me and then a few blocks later, I see a fancy building and I ask the cab driver what it is and he answers, "Why, that's Buckingham Palace." This makes me wonder how much of what Alex says is really the truth. We also went to the National Musuem in Trafalgar Square. And we ate a great English breakfast in a crypt below a cathedral. That was pretty awesome. So that was it. The rest of my time I spent on the bed watching BBC which really ain't nothing to shake a stick at. BBC is great hotel TV watching.
We just went to a museum. We're so smart now!
Stay tuned for Part Two of our adventures...
vienna has been waiting for me
I know this blog has been radio silent but there is good reason. I have been exiled from the country! For those of you well-traveled folks, you may be aware of something called the Schengen Agreement. Somewhere in there, it basically states that you can't be in most of the countries of the EU for more than 90 days out of every six months. My return to the U.S. in the beginning of January was the end of my 90 days in Europe so I had to skedaddle or risk penalty or even being barred from coming back for a time. At this point, Alex and I had fully intended on me having a residence permit so I could stay in the country for an extended period. However, that was not to be.
We finally got all of our paperwork in order in December. The big hold-up was a document from the LAPD which due to a comedy of errors was about three months late in getting to me. That is another story. Might I add, it is very difficult to have customer service issues with some place like a police department because of the looming fear that they will just put a warrant out for your arrest if you give them any lip. However, I did manage to get it resolved with healthy doses of patience, persistence and sweet-talking. This technique works in a lot of situations by the way. I should hold a workshop.
With all the documents in hand, we got up at the crack of 7am to go to the Austrian Office of GETTINGSHITDONE. I think we took two different trains and a street car to get there. We arrived about 15 minutes before it opened and we joined about thirty other people already in line. Once inside, we had to wait in line to get a number to go to another floor to sit in a chair and watch for our number to show up on a video screen. I kept myself busy by pretending it was a really slow game of Keno.
Finally our number came up and we were called in to the office. The scene that played out next was something out of a movie satirizing government bureaucracy. Or at least that's how I remember it in our head. We were in a small windowless office sitting across from a bit older than middle-aged Austrian Frau with a face that looked like it hadn't smiled since the third grade when she found an orange in her stocking on Christmas morning. We told her what we wanted and she told us what she wanted... She wanted me to get the hell out of her country. Okay, that's not she said, but seriously sometimes when people speak to you in German, no matter what they say, it sounds just that mean. Anyhow, one key piece of information that had eluded us the entire time we were preparing to get this residence permit is that there is a yearly quota for these types of things. And it was December. She pretty much said to come back at the beginning of the year to try and sneak in on that year's quota. The quota, by the way, as far as I understand it is 60! Sixty people. First I thought I misheard it but then I kept hearing it again and again. What I don't know is what that number 60 applies to. Is it 60 people from the U.S. in Austria? Is it 60 residence permits total? Is it 60 people with razor-sharp senses of humor, hypnotic green eyes and bunions on both sides of both her feet? They had really weird questions on the residence permit application.
So now, in the beginning of the year, I returned to Los Angeles. And two days after I got back into town, I dragged my jet-lagged self to the west side to visit the Austrian consulate. I have to say that this was a much easier venture then the travails in Vienna. I had to wait about five minutes, we spoke in English and it was relatively painless. She took my application, made sure I had everything in order and reminded me of that sixty-person yearly quota. I said, but I am here on the first business day of the year! I got no reasonable response to that because I don't think there was one.
It is now the end of March and I have heard zero news about this application. After I applied, my mother who fancies herself a bit of a soothsayer, said February 10th was the day I would hear the great news about my approved application. I called a couple weeks after I visited the office. She called back and left a message basically saying that to not even inquire again until March. I called back on the 1st of March and she returned my call again saying that she hadn't heard anything and I would probably be best to visit the Austrian offices when I get back to Vienna. Sigh. I am but a pawn in their games.
I will be back in Vienna on Sunday and probably go to the offices next week. I have no expectations of anything coming of this. I'm sure they've already picked their sixty witty, green-eyed, buniony American ladies and I just didn't make the cut. I guess I'm just going to have to scour the streets of Vienna to find one of these doppelgangers and make sure she has a little "accident" so I can open up a slot. Or I can just wait until Alex and I get married. Let's just see what happens first.



