i need a raincheck, england (part two)
And the saga continues. So after my weak few days in London, we finally headed off to Alex's first stop in his two-stop world lecture tour, The John Innes Center at the East Anglia University in Norwich. We opted to take a cab to the train station just to reserve my movin' around energy for the potentially gruelfest of a train ride. And much like the plane ride, I built it up so much in my head to be so terrifically uncomfortable, that it was actually quite tolerable. Granted, I took some awesome PRESCRIBED drugs before the trip. And on the train ride, I partook in my new favorite British OTC drug, cheese and onion potato chips crisps. I was bananas about those things. You know what, eff bananas. From now on, when I like things, I am CHEESEANDONIONCRISPS for them!
Passing through the town of Diss.
It is really a shame that I was such a cripple (oh, lighten up) for this whole trip. I vacillated from five minutes of "This discomfort is completely manageable!" to "I will never ever get better ever again." And when you have back problems, everybody wants to tell you some dire tale of lifelong chronic pain. Even when that tale is told with a British accent, it is not cute. Here's a tip for all the people of the world: Somebody's very present tale of woe is not your segue to tell any story other than one that ends in puppy dogs, rainbows and chocolate bars. Please retweet.
We took a taxicab from the train station to the inn where we were staying. It was pretty super duper. The property had an attached garden. Before we departed the next day, we decided to take a saunter through it. We had already brought our bags down so we asked the innkeeper if she would watch them at the front desk while we took a walk. She obliged ,however, she then inquired as to whether we had any sort of problem with frogs. "Frogs? No, not really. I like frogs," I said. Then we actually went to the garden and realized she had omitted a detail in her strange frog warning. These frogs was doing it. Or as my mother as a child used to describe cows mating, "Oh, look. That cow is giving the other cow a piggy-back ride!" And I welcome the clarification we're guaranteed to receive in the comments from said mother.
Frog-catching makes my people happy.
You have to go to Norwich, England to get yourself in this type of awesomeness.
The rest of this day involved a cab ride back to the train station, train to London, long cab ride to another train station in London, train to Warwick and then a car ride to our B&B in Stratford-upon-Avon. This was a day that all the drugs in the world could not save. When we got to the second train station in London, I was pretty much ready to call 999. Somehow by the grace of Vicodin, I made it all the way to Stratford.
We were there for two nights. I know I'm sounding like a whiney broken record, but I didn't really do anything of substance for those few days. Stratford is known for being the home (and death) of Shakespeare. When we originally made plans to stay here, we were going to do all the requisite touristing about town. The next night, we did make the short walk into the town center for some dinner which involved a walk by Shakespeare's alleged birth house. Had I been a bit more mobile, I would probably have hit the theater there to see a play and then also gone to see Stonehenge which is supposedly a bus ride away and partaken in a bit more of the scenery at a pub or three. However, whine, whine, complain, complain, woe is me, I didn't do any of those things because my back is a jerk.
Before we took off the next morning, we had our last deserved breakfast which is, in name, 50% of the agreed deal. And I felt that because breakfast was included, I had to partake in everything that was offered to me. This involved a nice appetizer of a bowl of granola with milk. Followed by a full English breakfast and a pitcher of fresh orange juice. The B&B lady visited with us a little as she brought us our heavy plates filled with scrambled eggs, sausages, rashers of bacon, cooked tomatoes, mushrooms and toast. I don't remember what I said but knowing me it was some sort of kiss-ass compliment about how much I love English breakfasts. She then responded with a diatribe how the British are the only ones that do cooked breakfasts. On and on, she went. Now, I do love English breakfasts because I do love breakfasting, however, she has obviously never heard of the American institution of IHOP. Call me when you have fruit-and-whipped-cream-topped-cheesecake-stuffed pancake stackers in your full English breakfast.
We took the train back into London. We had one more night there before leaving for Vienna. I had really hoped by this last night, I would have been recovered enough to take in a few sights. However, all the traveling about England really threw a wrench in my progress. So we just got a nice hotel room at the InterContinental in Mayfair and we stuffed our faces with BBC and room service. BBC America provides a nice sampling of what you can get but nowhere near the breadth and depth of what there is to be had at the source. Highlights were some hare-brained Andrew Lloyd Weber casting a production of Wizard of Oz American Idol-y show, this awesome game show Mastermind (?) and a marathon of this reality show to see who the could host the best dinner parties. It was all pretty great and made me a lot less sad I never got to try and make those guard guys at the palace place laugh.
Oh, no. We're staying across the hall from the Beast!
Don't worry, England. I'll be back. And I'm going to rip shit up properlike. Promise.
i need a raincheck, england (part one)
One week before I was to leave for London to meet Alex, on my way out the door of my apartment building to meet my trainer at the gym CRASHBANGBOOM my back went out. As I was crumpled on the ground in the lobby, I thought, "Wow, it is indeed like your back has done gone out. What an apt phrase that is!" I somehow managed to gather myself up enough to hobble up the stairs back to my apartment. After a grueling 24 hours, I got my hands on (read: prescribed by my doctor) some pain pills and muscle relaxers which brought me back to the land of the living. Now, I just had one week to recuperate before flying to London. That's possible, right? Right? Come to find out, no, it really is not.
Armed with my drugs (read: PRESCRIBED drugs) and a request for a wheelchair, I headed to LAX Saturday evening. Now, reserving a wheelchair was something I had never done before. And it was really surprisingly easy to do (just call your airline a few days before your flight), completely free (excluding a tip which is up to your discretion) and totally worthwhile. After checking in, I was directed to wait in a little cordoned off disabled person's corral where at about five minutes before my flight was about to board, I was picked up by my "driver." I don't want to say it was worth throwing out my back to have the opportunity to have an excuse to be wheelchaired at lightning speed through the airport in front of every line through secret doors directly to my seat on the plane, but it was definitely the silver lining of the week.
The flight was a Vicodin, Soma and a glass of white wine induced blur. And when we finally did get to London, my brain didn't even necessarily put together that my wheelchair reservation included a wheelchairing through Heathrow. It was a nice and welcome surprise. I was picked up by an Ali G sounding youngster who went above and beyond his duties. He whizzed me through the miles-long airport, through customs, got my luggage, brought me to an ATM, helped me purchase the right train ticket to get into London and dropped me off on the bench to wait for it. And he refused to take a tip which he greatly deserved. So Booyakasha and Respek to you, young man. Thank you.
I made my way to our hotel and crashed in the room. I was still in a pretty deep drug-fueled, jet-lagged travel coma when Alex arrived a few hours later. That night was uneventful. Some dinner was involved. More sleeping ensued. Let me just point out here that this was my first ever trip to London, England or anywhere in the United Kingdom for that matter. We had three days in London and I was still naively hopeful that I could get some touristy sightseeing checked off my list in the morning after a good night's sleep.
Double-decker bus. Check. Driving on the left side of the road. Check. Trafalgar Square in the background. Oh, yah, you betcha, we're in London!
Our hotel was really in a great location right on Trafalgar Square. Jetlag woke me up pretty early. When Alex roused, we made our way outside to go track down a nice full English breakfast. We surprisingly had a very difficult time finding a decent place to eat in our area. It was a bit before 8am and it seemed a lot of places weren't open yet. From this situation, one could surmise that London isn't as crazy about breakfast as we are in the States apparently. Finally, we had to settle on this chain that was right next to our hotel. I don't know if it was just an off day for this place, but they appeared to be opening their doors at the same time as they were receiving deliveries for the day and didn't seem to have any sort of back loading dock type entrance. So as we entered the restaurant, we were followed by carts of groceries. Unfortunately, it seemed that we beat the arrival of the potato truck so we were unable to have hash browns. We should have taken that as a warning sign for the quality that was to come. The breakfast was cold and blah. The coffee tasted like burnt dirt. However, I am smart enough not to judge the whole of England on this shitty franchise's version of their breakfast. Better breakfasts were to come.
After that bold jaunt through our temporary neighborhood, I spent the rest of the day convalescing in bed. However, that night we had reservations at Gordon Ramsey's Boxwood Cafe and I refused to miss it. It ended up being well worth it. We had their Monday Supper which was three courses with an amuse-bouche to start. I can't remember everything I had but I do remember I chose a Shepherd's Pie as the entree. The food was all fantastic. And my body managed to even keep it together until the middle of the second and third course. I popped some pills and carried on. I'm a star!
The sum of my sightseeing these three days were as follows: Seeing Buckingham palace on the way to the Gordon Ramsey restaurant. Well, let me say first Alex pointed the palace out to me and then a few blocks later, I see a fancy building and I ask the cab driver what it is and he answers, "Why, that's Buckingham Palace." This makes me wonder how much of what Alex says is really the truth. We also went to the National Musuem in Trafalgar Square. And we ate a great English breakfast in a crypt below a cathedral. That was pretty awesome. So that was it. The rest of my time I spent on the bed watching BBC which really ain't nothing to shake a stick at. BBC is great hotel TV watching.
We just went to a museum. We're so smart now!
Stay tuned for Part Two of our adventures...
vienna has been waiting for me
I know this blog has been radio silent but there is good reason. I have been exiled from the country! For those of you well-traveled folks, you may be aware of something called the Schengen Agreement. Somewhere in there, it basically states that you can't be in most of the countries of the EU for more than 90 days out of every six months. My return to the U.S. in the beginning of January was the end of my 90 days in Europe so I had to skedaddle or risk penalty or even being barred from coming back for a time. At this point, Alex and I had fully intended on me having a residence permit so I could stay in the country for an extended period. However, that was not to be.
We finally got all of our paperwork in order in December. The big hold-up was a document from the LAPD which due to a comedy of errors was about three months late in getting to me. That is another story. Might I add, it is very difficult to have customer service issues with some place like a police department because of the looming fear that they will just put a warrant out for your arrest if you give them any lip. However, I did manage to get it resolved with healthy doses of patience, persistence and sweet-talking. This technique works in a lot of situations by the way. I should hold a workshop.
With all the documents in hand, we got up at the crack of 7am to go to the Austrian Office of GETTINGSHITDONE. I think we took two different trains and a street car to get there. We arrived about 15 minutes before it opened and we joined about thirty other people already in line. Once inside, we had to wait in line to get a number to go to another floor to sit in a chair and watch for our number to show up on a video screen. I kept myself busy by pretending it was a really slow game of Keno.
Finally our number came up and we were called in to the office. The scene that played out next was something out of a movie satirizing government bureaucracy. Or at least that's how I remember it in our head. We were in a small windowless office sitting across from a bit older than middle-aged Austrian Frau with a face that looked like it hadn't smiled since the third grade when she found an orange in her stocking on Christmas morning. We told her what we wanted and she told us what she wanted... She wanted me to get the hell out of her country. Okay, that's not she said, but seriously sometimes when people speak to you in German, no matter what they say, it sounds just that mean. Anyhow, one key piece of information that had eluded us the entire time we were preparing to get this residence permit is that there is a yearly quota for these types of things. And it was December. She pretty much said to come back at the beginning of the year to try and sneak in on that year's quota. The quota, by the way, as far as I understand it is 60! Sixty people. First I thought I misheard it but then I kept hearing it again and again. What I don't know is what that number 60 applies to. Is it 60 people from the U.S. in Austria? Is it 60 residence permits total? Is it 60 people with razor-sharp senses of humor, hypnotic green eyes and bunions on both sides of both her feet? They had really weird questions on the residence permit application.
So now, in the beginning of the year, I returned to Los Angeles. And two days after I got back into town, I dragged my jet-lagged self to the west side to visit the Austrian consulate. I have to say that this was a much easier venture then the travails in Vienna. I had to wait about five minutes, we spoke in English and it was relatively painless. She took my application, made sure I had everything in order and reminded me of that sixty-person yearly quota. I said, but I am here on the first business day of the year! I got no reasonable response to that because I don't think there was one.
It is now the end of March and I have heard zero news about this application. After I applied, my mother who fancies herself a bit of a soothsayer, said February 10th was the day I would hear the great news about my approved application. I called a couple weeks after I visited the office. She called back and left a message basically saying that to not even inquire again until March. I called back on the 1st of March and she returned my call again saying that she hadn't heard anything and I would probably be best to visit the Austrian offices when I get back to Vienna. Sigh. I am but a pawn in their games.
I will be back in Vienna on Sunday and probably go to the offices next week. I have no expectations of anything coming of this. I'm sure they've already picked their sixty witty, green-eyed, buniony American ladies and I just didn't make the cut. I guess I'm just going to have to scour the streets of Vienna to find one of these doppelgangers and make sure she has a little "accident" so I can open up a slot. Or I can just wait until Alex and I get married. Let's just see what happens first.


